French highlighting: what nuances are important for a master to remember?

Despite the fact that hairdressers have different attitudes towards this coloring technique, client requests sometimes lean towards highlighting, which creates demand. In one of our previous materials, we talked about the technique of highlighting in general, as well as about the varieties of this type of coloring, among which was French highlighting or, as it is also called, mazhimesh coloring.

French highlighting has long been considered a “gentle” alternative to other types of highlighting for two reasons: the dyes used for this procedure do not contain ammonia, that is, the hair is not completely bleached - only 40%, and this technique is performed in an open way (dyed strands are not wrapped in foil).

This highlighting is performed with a gentle wax-based lightening composition, which has a creamy texture and allows you to bleach your hair relatively gently. In the process of this coloring, the hair is lightened by an average of 2-4 tones.

There are two “subspecies” of French highlighting, which differ in the zonation of coloring. The classic version of French highlighting involves coloring the entire length of hair in a chaotic or checkerboard pattern.

With partial dyeing, it is necessary to dye the hair zonally, for example: only the top layer of hair, exclusively strands near the face or bangs. Due to its “technical” features and a number of advantages, the French highlighting technique is the basis for other types of highlighting.

How relevant is this type of coloring now?

Natalie Silchenko , technologist TM BES ITALY, a former teacher at the Arsen Dekusar school of hairdressing, who took a fundamental color course from the art director of BES ITALY Saverio Palma (Milan, Italy) believes that now few people know about the majimesh technique (French highlighting) and uses.

“This technique is to create the most natural highlights, the effect of strands “bleached” in the sun. Mazhimesh helps to preserve the quality of the client’s hair as much as possible, because the procedure is performed using a dye or a special lightening cream. The unpopularity of this coloring, in my opinion, is caused by a number of factors, including:

• narrow focus: suitable only for the client’s light and natural hair;

• minimal contrast and maximum naturalness;

• Mostly suitable only for warm and neutral shades;

• The procedure takes the same amount of time as a conventional complex dyeing technique.

The advantages, of course, include good hair quality in the final stage and the smoothest possible root regrowth.

The unpopularity of this technique is quite justified, because, no matter how sad it may sound, there are more universal coloring options that allow you to combine several techniques and get a cleaner lightening background, a more embossed and readable pattern. And this will be a coloring that can be used on absolutely any base, not just light or natural.

That is why I believe that this coloring has already lost its relevance and few people know about its existence - both masters and clients. But fashion and trends are cyclical, and who knows, maybe in a year or two this coloring will become very popular and in demand again.

What shades are chosen for French highlighting?

An important distinguishing characteristic of French highlighting is that it is necessary to use natural shades in coloring, which is why the client’s hair will get a healthy look and shine.

The 3D effect is created by combining several similar shades, which literally shimmer in a chaotic mix.

Most often, variations of nut-honey, milky, pearl, golden or caramel shades are chosen for French highlighting.

Are there any restrictions on how a master can perform French highlighting?

First of all, it is important to remember that French highlights are intended for light brown hair.

If the client’s hair has recently been previously dyed with henna, basma or other dyes of plant origin, then we do not recommend undertaking highlighting, since as a result you will not get the color and texture that you wanted to achieve in the process.

Recently permed hair.

Catastrophically damaged hair that does not withstand the test strand.