California highlighting: what is the essence of the technique and who is it suitable for?

Alexey Baluev , art director of LONG & SHORT beauty salon and co-founder of LONG & SHORT hair academy, as well as winner in the “Colorist” category of the international Stella award

One of the modern trends in hair coloring is the California highlighting coloring technique.

What is the essence of this technique?

Thanks to California highlighting, we get smooth, soft transitions, in contrast to the clear lines in classic highlighting. This effect copies the effect of sun-bleached hair, since the hair of girls on the beaches of California fades quite strongly under the influence of ultraviolet radiation. Their hair acquires a soft golden tint, and the main task of a colorist working in this technique is to create a natural and natural stretch of color.

Depending on the initial base from which the client came for coloring, the correct algorithm of work is selected. It must be taken into account that the contrast should not exceed 2-3 tones, otherwise there will be a large contrast between dark and light shades, which will look unnatural and not harmonious.

Which clients are suitable for this coloring?

It is best to work in this technique if we are dealing with natural hair or dyed in light shades, for example, level 7-8. Then you can really get competent, high-quality coloring that will bring a touch of freshness to the client’s image.

Coloring is performed in several stages. The first is lightening. You know, I always approach coloring as if I were painting. And the first stage for me is like a sketch - creating an image with a simple pencil. When we lighten our hair, we create a relief - how the hair will fall apart, where there will be more light shade, and where there will be dark. And by toning, which is performed after lightening, we already fill our picture with colors.

How can a hairdresser determine whether California coloring is suitable for a client or not?

Coloring using the California highlighting technique is suitable for absolutely everyone; the main task of the master is to correctly select shades, maintain contrast and personalize the color. After all, each client has a different color type, and this is what you need to base your tinting on.