Alexandra Bublienko: about types of makeup and special materials

She told us in detail about the main features of makeup, its types and subtypes, special products and tools that makeup artists use in their work, and also shared information about the process of creating an image and the difficulties that novice artists may encounter.

Alexandra, where is the fine line between makeup and make-up?

First, let’s figure out the difference between make-up and make-up. Makeup satisfies the needs that arise in the usual life schedule. It can be very multifaceted, but still does not cover all the possibilities of makeup.

Make-up is more thorough, as it is based on color types, facial features, a complete analysis of appearance, including the selection of haircuts and styling, which create a holistic image.

And now about the makeup! Make-up is the art of changing (this is the key word!) appearance, mainly the face, using special means: makeup, plastic extensions (prosthetic), hair extensions (postig), wigs, and so on. The nature of the makeup depends on the concept, task and intention.

What is a plastic lining and why is it needed?

To realize the most interesting images, overlays (prosthetics), masks, half masks, etc. are used. The main task of the facial pad, which is made directly according to the anatomical features of the actor, is to convey facial expressions. What material it will be made from is decided by the master based on the task and capabilities.

The main materials for the manufacture of plastic linings are various types of silicone, latex, gelatin mixtures and other elastic materials that are allowed for contact with the skin. Quite often, false jaws and false fangs made from dental materials are used. Lenses and scleras are also very popular and complete the look perfectly.

What types of makeup exist and where are they used?

There are two methods of creating make-up: painterly (involves the use of make-up paints and related materials) and volumetric or plastic make-up (involves the use of additional means: plastic overlays, braces, post-dressing products). The main task of makeup is to help the actor embody a certain image.

Make-up can be divided into two directions: a) realistic and b) conventional. Realistic makeup, in turn, is divided into several subtypes.

1. Portrait makeup helps to create the image of a recognizable historical and other character.

2. Characteristic makeup is responsible for creating an image that conveys the character’s character.

3. National-historical - conveys images of the main races: Caucasoid, Negroid, Mongoloid.

4. Age - helps to change the age of the actor: make him old or rejuvenate.

Conventional makeup also has its own subtypes: genre, grotesque, fairy-tale and fantasy.

Theatrical makeup is very different from film makeup. Theatrical is characterized by exaggeration of features, while cinema is characterized by maximum realism even of unreal things. (Smiles.) Accordingly, the materials and approach are slightly different.

What products and tools do make-up artists use in their work?

First of all, it all depends on the task. The mechanics of the actor’s behavior play an important role: he dances or moves, swims or dives, and so on... The means are selected accordingly. It can be supra, dry pigments or persistent alcohol pigments.

For dry pigments and products, natural brushes are used, which have a good ability to accept and release pigment, but they are not suitable for other types of makeup paints, as they will quickly become unusable. Acrylic brushes can be used for supra, aqua, and alcohol makeup.

Sponges, stacks for special effects, and airbrushes are also used directly to level or create a uniform coating. In addition to makeup products, a makeup artist’s chest may contain makeup products: powders, adhesives and products for body art, as well as everything that does not cause allergies, skin burns, has been tested and can be used to create an image.

Of course, every make-up artist has his own tricks and favorite products. For example, I really like working with the Supracolor Kryolan tonal palette - it is very easy to use, mixes well and allows you to choose any tone depending on the task.

Read the continuation of the interview in the magazine MAKEUP&YOU Professional 2019/No. 4 .