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Cosmetics

Ingredients

<hr />Anna Margolina - Candidate of Biological Sciences (Russia); Polina Shteiman - Director of Strategy and Development Department of Magiray Cosmetics (Israel).<hr /> Holos – means “whole” When we talk about skin sensitivity, we usually mean nerve sensitivity. Here the relationship is quite obvious. For example, if we accidentally touch a sharp object with our hand, we will reflexively pull it away because the pain receptors located in our skin recognize the danger before we realize it with our minds, and the brain sends a command to the muscles before we have time to think about it. But skin sensitivity is not limited to simple neuromuscular reactions. The fact that the skin is at the forefront of the body forces it to maintain a dynamic dialogue with all the protective and regulatory systems of the body. For example, in response to the penetration of bacteria into the skin, the immune system mobilizes; when the skin cools, thermoregulation mechanisms in the brain are activated, and sharp pain causes the release of stress hormones. It is important to note that this relationship is two-way. When the immune system is activated, cells begin to migrate from the blood into the skin, causing inflammation in it, the activation of thermoregulation mechanisms leads to the expansion or contraction of skin vessels, and stress hormones cause increased sebum secretion, disruption of barrier function, etc. Because the skin interacts so closely with the nervous, immune and endocrine systems, its problems cannot be solved in isolation. The approach to solving skin problems, in which it is considered as part of a whole, is called a holistic approach (Greek: holos - whole). In this article we will consider both the theory of holistic methods and some practical aspects of their application in cosmetology. Magic in the skin The holistic approach is nothing new. Eastern medicine has been using it for many centuries. But Western medicine has always been dominated by a symptomatic approach, when the doctor treats individual symptoms (disease manifestations) using potent drugs that often have side effects (for example, hypertension is treated with blood pressure-lowering drugs, and inflammation with antibiotics or corticosteroids). Since modern cosmetology is largely based on dermatology, it also exhibits a symptomatic direction. This is why so many modern cosmetic methods carry the risk of damaging the skin. At the same time, cosmetology has deep roots in alternative and folk medicine, where soft, complex methods of influence are used. And if until recently doctors and scientists were skeptical about this branch of cosmetology, recently the situation has begun to change thanks to new data obtained through scientific research. First of all, it became clear that the skin, like other organs and tissues, has the ability to heal itself, and these abilities can in many cases be activated. A particularly striking example of the activation of the body’s internal healing power is the placebo effect, when recovery occurs due to the patient’s firm belief in the healing power of a new medicine or even a generally neutral remedy (placebo). The placebo effect is well known in cosmetology. For example, in studies of the effectiveness of hair restoration products, the placebo effect can reach 40%. This means that in almost half of the cases, improved hair growth can be caused by psychological factors. Psychological influence is only one way to activate recovery processes. It turns out that many well-known alternative medicine methods can work by stimulating the production of signaling molecules (cytokines), which in turn affect hormones and nerve fibers. In addition, the skin has nerve endings (C-fibers), which, upon certain stimulation, produce signal hormone-like molecules that affect physiological processes in the skin. These discoveries have given new life to many time-tested methods of restoring the harmony of the body, such as massage, acupressure, mud therapy, water treatments, aromatherapy, etc. Having improved their technique and expanded their capabilities, cosmetology, in close collaboration with alternative medicine, was able to develop completely new methods of complex effects, ultimately aimed at restoring health. Stress and skin health One of the most important factors influencing the condition of the skin and, accordingly, the result of a cosmetic procedure is stress. The fact is that stress is not only a psychological, but also a physiological reaction that affects many organs, including the skin. For example, chronic stress disrupts the formation of the skin&#39;s protective barrier, slows wound healing, and increases inflammation. In addition, stress can cause hair loss and increased sebum secretion. This means that treatment of conditions such as acne, hyperpigmentation, alopecia, using some intensive techniques, as well as potent cosmetics against a background of stress, may be ineffective or give an unpredictable result. Therefore, it is recommended to begin any cosmetic procedure with relaxation. Relaxation may include an appropriate relaxing atmosphere in the salon, massage, aromatherapy, etc. Based on our many years of experience, it can be noted that relaxation before a cosmetic procedure:<ul><li> promotes more complete absorption of active components of cosmetics by the skin;</li><li> reduces the risk of side effects during aggressive procedures;</li><li> significantly increases the effectiveness of any cosmetic procedure.</li></ul> A Holistic Approach to Acne Problems Formally, acne is considered a disease , but, nevertheless, many people suffering from acne consider it a cosmetic problem and do not go to the doctor, but turn to a cosmetologist. And very often, cosmetic care for acne gives better results and allows you to keep your skin in good condition longer than treatment by a dermatologist. This is explained by the fact that dermatologists practice symptomatic methods, many of which have side effects and cannot be used for a long time (antibiotics are a striking example). In cosmetology, there is the possibility of complex effects aimed at gradually healing the skin and restoring its balance. It is known that the leading role in the development of acne is played by the following processes: increased secretion of sebum (usually under the influence of male sex hormones), impaired exfoliation of cells in the ducts of the sebaceous glands with subsequent blockage, colonization of the sebaceous glands first by microorganisms Propionobacterium acne, and then by others bacteria, fungi and demodex mites, and the inflammation caused by these uninvited guests. Within the framework of cosmetology, it is possible to effectively influence all these processes, using both multifunctional cosmetic preparations and selecting their correct sequence during a cosmetic procedure (Table 1). Table 1. Means and methods of symptomatic treatment of acne in cosmetology <table border="1" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="1" style="width:500px"><tbody><tr><td style="background-color:rgb(255, 255, 204)"> Mechanisms of acne development</td><td style="background-color:rgb(255, 255, 204)"> Methods of influence</td><td style="background-color:rgb(255, 255, 204)"> Active components</td></tr><tr><td style="background-color:rgb(255, 255, 204)"> Increased sebum secretion</td><td style="background-color:rgb(255, 255, 204)"> Reducing sebum secretion using sebum regulators, sebum absorption</td><td style="background-color:rgb(255, 255, 204)"> Sepicontrol® complex, herbal extracts containing natural sebum regulators, clays</td></tr><tr><td style="background-color:rgb(255, 255, 204)"> Violation of the process of cell exfoliation and blockage of the ducts of the sebaceous glands</td><td style="background-color:rgb(255, 255, 204)"> Removing blocked ducts and enhancing exfoliation</td><td style="background-color:rgb(255, 255, 204)"> Papaya Proteolytic Enzymes, Scrubs, Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids</td></tr><tr><td style="background-color:rgb(255, 255, 204)"> Colonization of the sebaceous glands by various microorganisms</td><td style="background-color:rgb(255, 255, 204)"> Suppression of pathogenic microflora</td><td style="background-color:rgb(255, 255, 204)"> Natural antibiotics – elderberry extract, essential oils of thyme and sage, Icelandic moss</td></tr><tr><td style="background-color:rgb(255, 255, 204)"> Inflammatory processes</td><td style="background-color:rgb(255, 255, 204)"> Use of natural anti-inflammatory agents</td><td style="background-color:rgb(255, 255, 204)"> Clays, Dead Sea mud, chamomile, green tea, plantain, witch hazel extracts, aloe juice and gel</td></tr></tbody></table> Table 2. Preventive and restorative procedures for acne In addition to this, cosmetology has other possibilities for improving both the appearance of the skin with acne and minimizing its consequences - post-acne (Table 2). <table border="1" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="1" style="width:500px"><tbody><tr><td style="background-color:rgb(255, 255, 204)"> Preventive and restorative procedures</td><td style="background-color:rgb(255, 255, 204)"> Methods of influence</td><td style="background-color:rgb(255, 255, 204)"> Active components</td></tr><tr><td style="background-color:rgb(255, 255, 204)"> Elimination of redness and swelling that accompany inflammation and post-acne</td><td style="background-color:rgb(255, 255, 204)"> Prevention of blood stagnation, activation of metabolism, increase in skin turgor</td><td style="background-color:rgb(255, 255, 204)"> Ginkgo, centella, grape, pomegranate extracts, Sepilift® complex, amino acids, collagen, hyaluronic acid</td></tr><tr><td style="background-color:rgb(255, 255, 204)"> Elimination of hyperpigmentation</td><td style="background-color:rgb(255, 255, 204)"> Prevention of inflammatory processes, lightening procedures</td><td style="background-color:rgb(255, 255, 204)"> Arbutin, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, herbal complexes that have a brightening and resolving effect</td></tr><tr><td style="background-color:rgb(255, 255, 204)"> Prevention of irritation and itching</td><td style="background-color:rgb(255, 255, 204)"> Soothing and restorative treatments</td><td style="background-color:rgb(255, 255, 204)"> Dead Sea minerals and mud, soothing herbal complexes</td></tr></tbody></table> Comprehensive solution to the problems of aging skin A symptomatic approach using aggressive methods is especially often used in the fight against wrinkles. This is largely dictated by the busy lifestyle of business women, who make up a significant part of consumers of cosmetic services - due to a chronic lack of time, they tend to choose, as they say in the West, quick-fix, that is, “quick fix.” There is a growing popularity of services such as laser resurfacing, Botox injections, fillers, etc., that is, all methods that allow you to get the effect of rapid rejuvenation without a long course of procedures or a long recovery period. Without denying the value of these methods, we, however, believe that the role of traditional cosmetic, gradual exposure, and, most importantly, regular skin care cannot be underestimated. On the contrary, the use of modern cosmetic preparations not only allows you to keep the skin in good shape, postponing the need for more aggressive intervention, but also activates the regenerative powers of the skin, which allows it to more easily tolerate various invasive procedures and significantly increases the effectiveness of the “quick fix” so beloved by clients. What cosmetic products can most effectively solve this problem? In our opinion, these are drugs with the following characteristics:<ol><li> They act in collaboration with the natural mechanisms of restoration and renewal of the skin, without harming it or disturbing the delicate balance of its biological processes.</li><li> They are multifunctional, that is, one drug can be used to solve several problems.</li><li> Contain ingredients that have been proven safe either by intensive clinical trials or by traditional use (ideally both).</li><li> The active components exhibit synergism, that is, they enhance each other’s effects.</li><li> Synergism of drugs during a cosmetic procedure - each drug prepares the skin to accept the next drug, which allows layer-by-layer and increasing saturation of the skin with necessary substances.</li><li> The optimal combination of mildness and effectiveness of the drug. In cosmetology, the principle “if you go slower, you’ll keep going” is often the most winning strategy.</li></ol> One example of complex effects in our practice is the combination of chemical peeling with alpha hydroxy acids with the use of drugs that stimulate skin restructuring, promote collagen synthesis and proper organization of collagen fibers (biologically active peptides), as well as drugs that accelerate skin recovery after peeling. Additionally, products are used that help form a reliable moisture-retaining skin barrier (for example, blackcurrant and borage oils), relieve inflammation (antioxidants) and prevent hyperpigmentation. Using the synergy of active ingredients in combination with the synergy of drugs, a cosmetologist can successfully influence the skin without resorting to aggressive influences, or use this method to prepare the skin for more intensive procedures, which will both reduce the risk of side effects and significantly improve results. Spa -cosmetology Perhaps the widest possibilities for using holistic methods are offered by spa cosmetology. The very atmosphere of the spa, combined with the soothing effect of water and procedures such as aromatherapy, thermal wraps, massage, causes general relaxation, both physical and psychological, and relieves stress. An increase in endorphin levels in response to relaxation and pleasant emotions leads to a weakening of the manifestations of many skin diseases, especially those accompanied by itching and pain. During massage and water procedures, there is a general stimulation of the nerve endings of the skin, which promotes the production of biologically active substances in them, which, in turn, normalize biological processes in the skin and throughout the body. The skin, along with the kidneys and liver, is an important detoxifier for the body. Therefore, the effectiveness of spa procedures is also due to the fact that toxins and metabolic products are eliminated through the skin with sweat and sebum. It is not without reason that many alternative treatments include stimulation of sweating. To detoxify the skin, the spa uses various types of body wraps, saunas, steam baths, oil-cream massage and a number of other treatments. The principles of holistic skin care in spas are often practiced in spa hotels located on the sea coasts. By approaching skin problems from a holistic perspective, that is, considering the skin as a single whole with the entire body, you can achieve not only the elimination of one or another cosmetic defect, but also the improvement of the skin, slowing down its aging and increasing its resistance to harmful external influences. A relatively short course of procedures leads to tangible and quick results. Conclusion The unique position of the skin and, in particular, its accessibility to a variety of influences, opens up wide opportunities for a holistic approach in cosmetology. Cosmetic procedures based on this approach have a stabilizing and healing effect on the body and nervous system, which, in turn, contributes to the restoration and healing of the skin. Summarizing the principles of a holistic approach in cosmetology, we can give the following recommendations:<ul><li> mild cosmetic effect with minimal damaging effect, aimed at maintaining good skin condition for the longest possible time;</li><li> impact on key mechanisms of the pathological process along with a general balancing and restorative effect;</li><li> the use of drugs containing multifunctional complexes of active components that exhibit synergism;</li><li> construction of a cosmetic procedure based on the synergism of cosmetic preparations;</li><li> instead of using drugs with a high concentration of active ingredients, use a technique of gradual and layer-by-layer saturation of the skin with active substances;</li><li> the use of psychological influence methods, including relaxation before a cosmetic procedure;</li><li> along with cosmetic procedures, the widespread use of massage, aromatherapy, water treatments and other methods of comprehensive healing.</li></ul> This approach is the opposite of the symptomatic or “quick fix” approach, which uses high-risk traumatic exposures with frequent side effects, high concentrations of active substances or even pure active substances, as well as extreme physical influences (laser and heat radiation, peeling with extremely low acidity, etc.). However, this does not mean that the cosmetologist sacrifices efficiency for safety. Our experience shows that the holistic treatment, with all its gentleness, has undeniable advantages, since it allows us to achieve significant and lasting improvement in skin condition with maximum comfort and minimal risk for the client. The use of techniques that reduce stress levels and have a comprehensive healing effect takes cosmetic care to a fundamentally new level, when the beneficial effects of cosmetic procedures extend far beyond the solution of purely aesthetic problems.<hr /> First published: KOSMETIK international journal, No. 3(33), 2008, pp.52-56

Holistic approach in cosmetic practice