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Author: Dmitry Kucherenko – director of the SIT company, owner of the Equator tanning studio chain (Ukraine, Kiev).<hr /> From the history of the issue In the 40s In the 20th century, tanning gained mass popularity at the instigation of French fashion trendsetter Coco Chanel. But they began to associate it with health even earlier, in the early 1900s, with the advent of heliotherapy - treatment with sunlight. The popularity of tanning as a sign of health and well-being lasted for several decades, and no one doubted the benefits of sunbathing. Indeed, these procedures have an excellent strengthening effect: metabolism increases, the functioning of the endocrine glands improves, the amount of hemoglobin increases, vitamin D is synthesized (especially important for the prevention of rickets in children, as well as the prevention of osteoporosis in the elderly). Sun rays have a pronounced antidepressant effect and contribute to positive dynamics in the treatment of psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, various forms of ichthyosis, etc. Therefore, dermatology began to use “artificial sun” - solariums. At first, A-rays, which oxidize melanin, were used in tanning salons. As a result of this process, the top layer of skin darkened, protecting deeper layers from damage and burns. After a 20-minute exposure, the tan developed within several hours. Unfortunately, the quickly acquired bronze skin tone tended to fade just as quickly, especially on the hands and face due to frequent contact with water. In addition, under such influence the skin was subjected to the process of photoaging. Therefore, later solariums began to appear in which ultraviolet B rays were used, causing increased melanin synthesis. The tan appeared 2–3 days after the session. The main advantage of such equipment was its long-lasting effect. The latest generation of solariums combines the advantages of previous models. Modern devices use lamps that emit A- and B-rays. The advantage of these models is the possibility of precise dosage of ultraviolet radiation, taking into account the skin type. At the same time, the lamps provide a balanced combination of UVA and UVB rays and completely eliminate the presence of γ-rays (UVC), which are harmful to the body’s cells. Today, solariums are used not only for heliotherapy. Preliminary tanning sessions prepare the skin for the active summer sun. Unlike natural conditions, tanning time (seasonality) and the intensity of solarium radiation can be controlled depending on the individual properties of the skin, which almost completely eliminates the risk of sunburn. A huge number of scientific works in recent years indicate the benefits of dosed ultraviolet irradiation for both healthy and sick people. Sunbathing is considered the main healing factor in balneology. Ultraviolet light in combination with vitaminization of the body, physical training, exposure to contrasting temperatures and other methods significantly improves well-being and performance. <table border="1" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="1" style="width:500px"><tbody><tr><td style="background-color:rgb(255, 255, 204)"> sunlight What is UV radiation, and what explains its such controversial effects on the human body? Sunlight consists of rays of different wavelengths: UV, infrared and visible radiation. The most dangerous radiation for the skin is UV radiation, which is divided into UVA (320–380 nm), UVB (280–320 nm) and UVC (200–280 nm). UVC is the radiation that has the most destructive effect on flora and fauna, but it is mainly absorbed by the ozone layer of the stratosphere and does not reach the earth&#39;s surface. The action of UVB rays is based primarily on the dilation of blood vessels in the dermis, but the main changes occur in the epidermis. Radiation in this spectrum is responsible for the appearance of sunburn, which can cause further development of skin cancer. Despite the fact that these rays have an energy 1000 times higher than that of UVA, 90% of them are blocked by the stratum corneum of the epidermis, while 50-60% of UVA is able to penetrate deep into the skin. Thus, under their influence, the elasticity and firmness of the papillary and reticular layers of the dermis decreases, which causes the appearance of signs of premature aging of the skin - wrinkles, folds and age spots. Radiation of different spectrums has a specific effect on cells, tissues and the body as a whole. The result of the weak biological effects of UVA is mainly redness of the skin followed by melanin synthesis (tanning). UVB has a pronounced biological effect. With general irradiation, doses that do not cause redness of the skin are more often used. With their help, they eliminate the phenomena of D-hypovitaminosis associated with a lack of sunlight, normalize phosphorus-calcium metabolism, increase the strength of bone tissue, stimulate its recovery in case of fractures, and increase the body&#39;s resistance to harmful environmental factors. As a result of UVB irradiation, allergic reactions and tissue swelling are reduced, mental and physical performance increases. UVC is not used for general irradiation, since under its influence protein denaturation and cell death occur. Serves to combat microorganisms that cause infections.</td></tr></tbody></table> Full control However, despite all the advantages of sunlight and artificial sun substitutes, tanning, of course, must be controlled. Today, scientists have identified the negative consequences of UV radiation: photodermatitis, exacerbation of chronic diseases, relapses of herpes, premature aging of the skin, disorders of pigmentation and metabolic processes, the risk of cancer, etc. Before visiting a solarium, you must consult a doctor, as there are a number of restrictions and contraindications to sunbathing. Absolute contraindications are: cardiovascular problems, active forms of pulmonary tuberculosis, bronchial asthma, blood diseases, increased thyroid function, tumors, inflammatory processes, including the female genital area. At risk are: people with very fair skin and hair, redheads (1 phototype), people who have suffered sunburn, especially in childhood, with birthmarks more than 1 cm and a bulge in the middle, numerous (more than 100) or large moles, as well as those who have a family history of melanoma. At the same time, solarium lovers need to remember the following:<ul><li> There are a number of medications (photosensitizers), the use of which cannot be combined with tanning sessions in a solarium, since they increase the photosensitivity of the skin and provoke sun allergies.</li><li> It is not recommended to visit the solarium for children under 15 years of age and people with type 1 skin, as it is very sensitive to ultraviolet rays.</li><li> If you have age spots, numerous and large moles, or dermatitis, you should consult a dermatologist.</li><li> Skin sensitivity increases significantly after hair removal.</li><li> People with high blood pressure, impaired liver and heart function, and patients with tuberculosis should exercise special caution.</li><li> During pregnancy, a hormone that activates pigment (chloasma) is produced, so women during this period are very sensitive to ultraviolet radiation and are not recommended to sunbathe in a solarium.</li><li> You should not visit the solarium immediately (less than 15–30 minutes) after a bath, swimming pool or sauna.</li></ul> Safe tanning formula Despite the apparent simplicity of the procedure, a specialist in a beauty salon or tanning studio must provide the client with comprehensive advice. Procedure. With a lamp power of 160 W or higher and a UVA/UVB ratio of more than 2.0%, it is necessary to start with 4–5 minutes, increasing the session duration to a maximum of 10–11. You should visit the solarium no more often than every other day, and once you achieve the desired shade of tan, maintain it 1-2 times a week (but no more than 50 sessions per year). Typically, the average cycle of procedures in such powerful solariums is 5-7 consecutive sessions with an interval of 1 day. These figures are very relative and depend on the type of equipment, skin condition and other factors. Cosmetics . To achieve a quick, even, high-quality tan and to avoid the negative effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin, you must use only products specifically designed for solariums. They are sold as activators (tanning stimulants), developers and fixers (for tanned skin). After the session, the skin dries out, so you should apply cream or lotion with vitamins A and E. Hygiene precautions . During a tanning session, you must use special glasses that protect your eyes and eyelids without creating shaded areas on your face. Ultraviolet light easily penetrates the thin eyelid, adversely affecting the retina. Therefore, if the client wears contact lenses, they must be removed before the session. Tattoos (especially red and green dyes) and permanent makeup should be covered with special stickers; for the breasts (nipples), cone-shaped plastic caps - “stikini”, which reflect ultraviolet light - are used. In addition, in modern specialized tanning studios, so-called “protective” lipstick has become widespread, designed to prevent the skin of the lips from drying out, as well as to protect the tattoo. Before visiting the solarium, you should remove makeup, as many cosmetics have sunscreen properties. Hair must be covered with a scarf or a special cap. It is not recommended to shower immediately before the procedure to avoid dry skin. If redness and itching appear on the skin after a tanning session, it is better to postpone your next visit to the solarium for several days. Choosing a solarium: quality test There are two types of solarium: horizontal and vertical. There are also one-sided and two-sided devices, but in domestic salons they mainly use two-sided semi-professional or professional devices. The main distinguishing feature of various solarium models is the number and type of lamps, as well as the total power of the device. Today, about 80% of visitors to tanning studios in Ukraine prefer vertical solariums. Why? Just 4–5 years ago, mainly semi-professional (28–35 lamps) horizontal devices were widespread in our country, while there was a lot of used equipment brought from Poland with old (expired) lamps. As this type of business developed and competition in the service market intensified, new vertical devices appeared in a more favorable light. Here the lamps turned out to be more powerful (160-200 W, in horizontal ones - 100-120 W), and a tan could be obtained faster (the session was 3-10 minutes, while in horizontal ones it reached 20 minutes). In addition, vertical solariums from leading manufacturers have more powerful airflow, the flows are distributed over the entire surface of the body, which helps reduce sweat production. Also, such devices compare favorably with semi-professional equipment or equipment from peripheral manufacturers by the presence of such “tricks” as aromatherapy, working aquabreeze, and separate lamps for the face and shoulders. For many, the hygienic aspect is of particular importance - in a horizontal solarium, the body is in full contact with its surface, and in a vertical solarium, only the feet and hands are on the handrails. Although everywhere, disinfection is carried out after each client. Technical specifications. An important point to pay attention to is the so-called. &quot; β coefficient&quot;, or the ratio of UVA and UVB rays. This indicator directly affects the duration of the session, the quality and durability of the tan. A good effect is achieved with a coefficient above 2.0. 2.6–3.0 is considered the best in terms of quality and safety. The optimal number of lamps in a solarium is 40–50, the power of which is at least 160 W. It is recommended to use lamps from such manufacturers as Philips, Cosmedico, Lightech. They work most balanced in the range from 50 to 650 hours (with a resource limit of 800 hours). In the first 50 hours, the lamps operate with 20% more ultraviolet elimination than the standard, and after 650 hours - 20% less. The service life of a solarium, on average, is 2–3 years, a vertical one – up to 3–4 years, after which it needs to be overhauled or replaced with a new one. After 2–3 years of active use without good after-sales services, cobalt filters in face lamps may become damaged, cracks and chips may appear on acrylic glasses. As a result of such problems, the level of skin protection from residual manifestations of the adverse effects of ultraviolet radiation is reduced. Brands of solariums. The most famous global brand today is the German Ergoline (very reliable horizontal solariums of the professional line, vertical solariums are still represented by devices of the previous generation, which are significantly inferior to other leading manufacturers). Vertical solariums Megasun (Germany) pureEnergy series are considered the standard of design and quality. They are somewhat inferior in popularity, but technically superior to the vertical devices of the German manufacturer UWE. The most common in Ukraine are Dutch solariums Alisun - the No. 1 brand in our country. The Dutch Hapro and inexpensive German Dr. are well known. Kern. Also on the domestic market is equipment from the Dutch company Garda Sun and the Italian Sportarredo. Additional functions. Some modern devices are equipped with additional functions: aquabreeze (spraying water during a session), separate metal halide lamps for the face, aromatherapy, frosted glass. Service and comfort for the client. Reputable tanning studios or beauty salons in rooms with solariums must install an exhaust hood (supply and exhaust ventilation), air conditioning, and also offer professional cosmetics from time-tested brands. It is important to have qualified solar consultants, whose responsibilities include recommendations regarding the duration and sequence of a tanning session, the choice of special cosmetics depending on the type and characteristics of the skin, etc. To ensure safe tanning in a solarium, you must be able to purchase high-quality accessories - a stickkini, a hair cap , disposable slippers, glasses.<hr /> Source: KOSMETIK international journal, No. 2(32), 2008, pp. 52-56

ABC of solarium